Adrift in South African History

Gravesite near our Ladysmith home

   Since arriving in South Africa I have taken a very keen interest in this country’s history. It started when Chris and I discovered three grave markers in our local neighborhood that marked the resting place of three soldiers who served and died in Ladysmith during the English-Boar war.  Two of them were serving with the 5^th Lancers, an Irish contingent, which was one of many units who fought during this war around 1900.  

   With the help of local historian, John Hawkesbury, we discovered that one of the soldiers, PTE F. Dowsett, actually drowned in the Klip River that runs behind and below our current boarding, the other died of shrapnel wounds. The third I know little about except that he was curator of graves and died about 10 years after the other two.

   I digress. My purpose in writing this is to describe our trip to Rorke’s Drift, organized by Mr. Hawkesbury and the Ladysmith Historical Society.

    The battle, or defense of Rorke’s Drift, took place, Wednesday 22 and Thursday 23 January, 1879, when some 150 mainly British soldiers defended a supply station against some 4000 Zulus. This defense was brought to the attention of the world through the movie Zulu, starring Michael Cane. It is a remarkably accurate depiction of the events or those two days with some embellishments. This movie is still available on Netflix.

Museum display of soldiers and their defensive position

Elder and Sister Brown

   Mr. Hawkesbury, a retired British army officer, arranged this trip on our preparation day and invited our local missionaries and the Browns, our good friends from Newcastle, to join us. There were also about 30 other people from Ladysmith, mainly members of the historical society.

John and Charles, X British officers

   Our host at the site was another retired British officer, Charles Aikenhead, who owns a hotel at the site. This hotel overlooks the Buffalo River which played a prominent part in the event. Mr. Aikenhead, and Mr. Hawkesbury, and the president of the society, took turns guiding us around the area and explaining the history of the event.

   Briefly, because many of you may have or will see this movie, I will give an only a few details.

   On January 22, 1879, a British army unit that was encamped at Isandhlwana about 15k from Rorke’s Drift was attacked by 20,000 Zulu warriors. It was a great defeat for the British and they lost about 1700 men. This incident was the “British Alamo” according to our guides.

Viewing the Isandhlwana site with our group

   The Zulu’s had about 4000 additional warriors that were not involved in the battle because they were younger men that were ordered to remain in reserve. When they saw what happened and that they could have no part in the spoils of war, they decided that they would take it upon themselves to attack the supply depot at Rorke’s Drift. The Drift was only being held by 150 soldiers and it looked easy for the taking.

   There are a lot of details and information that I could share, but I won’t do that here. For those of you who are interested, Google will direct you and the movie Zulu will be quite educational and interesting.

  This site is only about 50 miles from where we live, about a 2-hour drive due to a long stretch of dirt road.

John with a Martini-Henry rifle

  Our hosts were wonderful. They led us to various sites and explained the history, showed us the Martini-Henry rifles that the British used to defend themselves, took us to the actual site of the battle and explained how these 150 soldiers held off 4000 warriors before reinforcements arrived.  At Rorke's Drift, eleven Victoria Crosses were awarded. Seven to the 2nd Battalion, 24th (2nd Warwickshire) Regiment of Foot, one to the Army Medical Department, one to the Royal Engineers, one to the Commissariat and Transport Department and one to the Natal Native Contingent. 

Reconstructed hospital

   We viewed the exhibit in the museum, the memorials to both the British and the Zulu warriors, and generally enjoyed the whole experience.

Zulu Memorial--A leopard atop Zulu shields

   I was a little disappointed to discover that the way the battle ended in the movie, was not what really happened. It ended because the “cavalry arrived” at the last moment!

   We sometimes undertake excursions like this to give us a little break from the other six very busy days of serving the Lord. It fires us up and enables us to continue on in His service.

At the hotel overlooking the Buffalo River. Don't we look relaxed!

Plus, it helps to give us a better understanding of the people of South Africa and how they got to where they are today.  And we don’t take sides...go Brits, go Zulu’s, go Boers!  Did you know that Ghandi served here in Ladysmith during the Anglo-Boer war? Or that Winston Churchill was here as a war correspondent during that same war? And he was actually captured by the Boers?

  Stay tuned!

Rhinos and Hippos

St Lucia tiny town but very quaint with hardly any people.

On Monday morning we headed out for our Couples retreat. April 17-20.  We headed to Ghost Mountain Inn in between at least 3 Game Reserves.  You guessed it !  We went on 2 more game reserve drives and went to a Zulu Family village that was known to our driver.  We seemed to be constantly eating buffet style and it was very good.  The location was up the coast from Richards Bay, our old stomping ground for S&I. 

This baby took forever to drink. They don't bend well!

   Mkuze drive was first with a few rhino and zebra.  We are getting to be hardened wildlife watchers and were almost bored except for the driver was interesting and quite the talker on the rhino and it’s poachers. 

We had the same driver for 3 days and learned that these reserves have been particularly hit hard by foreign poachers looking for the rhino horn to the Chinese market.  They get about R50,000 for one horn and they butcher the rhino to get it.  Just 2 weeks before they had killed quite a crop of rhino. 

Crocodile Curry was more tender than chicken and chunkier!

As soon as we pushed the button...

Mariachies African style.

Hluhluwe our next reserve has the largest population of rhino, but has lost over 1000 of them in just 2 years.  They are down to only 3000 and will be out in just a few years if the government will not step in and consider it a priority.  When poachers get caught they can be killed by the rangers, but they are not authorized to do it. 

  

38 years old and engaged for years .26 members of  family live in compound.

The modern home Zulu village was interesting, but did not offer all that much new information.   I did find out that the modern Zulu man still pays cows for his wife and when she is a Virgin and not related to royalty can  cost up to 35 cows.  If this man, while waiting to get enough cows, gets his bride pregnant with child he now must pay extra for the bride but also pay for the child’s  support also.  More cows!  (at R5,000+per cow)

The ranger said this zebra had an encounter with a lion and lived!

Like Disneyland but better!

Can't remember this little bird that keeps the zebra clean of parasites.

Monkeys of St Lucia-lots of them!

 

We left the conference and spent the night in St Lucia. 

(this little town has 38 B&B’s and reminds me of Balboa Island with lots of German tourists)  This was an adorable seaside village, that has the claim to fame of having wandering hippos walk the street at night.(hippos eat grass and graze at night because their bodies do not control their temperature—they also do not swim but  can hold breath up to 6 minutes in water—must stay fairly close to the shore line) 

Mom and baby!

We didn’t see any hippos walking because we got lost when going to the restaurant that is closest to the mouth of the estuary. 

These guys stand up on the bottom and if too deep just hold their breath.

They are supposed to be very dangerous and can run faster than a man.  The next morning we went on the boat that takes you to see the pods of hippos(one pod per km).  An estuary is this huge fresh water river going to the ocean just teaming with interesting wildlife.  It was so windy on Friday morning that the crocodiles  were all in the water and no hippo fighting went on.  We saw 1 croc on the bank our whole trip at the reserves.            

  Saw 3 new seminary and institute teachers up there the next 2 days and did individual inservice  on Friday and Saturday morning.

  We got back on Sat night for Sunday in Dundee for their Branch Conference.

 The DeKlerks had it together and the talks were great. She had lunch prepared for the whole Branch, which she does about 3 times a year.   

   Monday was hectic and so was Tues.  We ended up with a bakkie in our garage.The Dransfields ended up spending the night on Monday and going to dinner.    

April Is Fall

 Sunday was General Conference and Kent does flash drives with Saturday Morning Conference on it.  Bishopbric had Satellite coming over at the exact time of church but it was poor audio quality.

Since Ladysmith Elders moved boardings  the previous weekend, we had a huge shopping to do for them on Monday.

New fridge for Ladysmith!

   Mabel and Ivy both came for coaching on Primary lesson and English instruction.  It was so fun.  The Men could hardly make us go home!  We were watching videos,  doing the English lesson and Mabel was practicing her lesson on the recorder on my phone much like I used to do with Todd when he was little and talks were scary.

   No  Institute this week because students did not show.  It was Easter vacation for 2 weeks and there was a big youth activity going on when we got there.

Playing games.

Branch Pres. was making "1/4" sandwiches for each one when we got there. (1/4 of a loaf of bread)

About 40 youth came to activity.  (We have more primary!)

   Browns came down on  Friday for interviews and Sibonelo but he had a problem and called and cancelled.  Sis Brown and I went shopping and met the men later to go to lunch at our favorite place, Penelopes.

   Visited the Chingwenas out in Watersmeet on Sunday, our first as VT and Hometeachers.  We have the furthest out people because we will pay the petrol.  Monday the next day we visited the 2 Madonsela Families that live about 30 kms from Ladysmith and he is the Branch President! Running water comes their house once a week by truck into their JoJo tank.

Madonselas live in this township almost to Newcastle.

   As payment for washing our car on Saturday, we took the Elders to our Chinese place on Monday.  They were thrilled, especially when it was pouring rain with a loud electrical storm.  In fact Elder Varner was facing the window when a lightening bolt struck a lightening rod next to the restaurant and he saw the whole thing.  It caused a very loud burgler alarm to go off and blew their TV in the bar and messed up wiring of their phone.  The owner said later it did thousands of Rand worth of damage but hasn't seen the insurance money yet.  

  Sister Jilli's big party was on Tuesday.  Oh my gosh!  Relief Society asked me what you do when we have missionaries come home from their mission.  I said there was not anything they had to do--just welcome them home.  I told them that they could have an openhouse at their home if they wanted just to visit. I said that the Branch President would ask the missionary to speak in sacrament meeting and that  Sister Jilli could give a fireside to the ward at a latter date especially for the youth and light refreshments could be served.  At no time should the Branch pay for a big party.

Sis Jili

   This is what really happened after my solicited council:  It was like the prodical daughter had just returned.  3 cars of family and friends went to pick her up in Durban and then came home to a rented tent with table and chairs and rented table cloths.  (about 2 hours later than hoped for and about a 60 people had a sit down served banquet dinner)  There was a 30 minute program with music and all chief family members were sitting at the head table.

 It was very formal and I've never attended an openhouse like it. (icecream and cookies it was not not!)  The bride, I mean returned missionary from Zimbabwe, spoke for a few minutes and it was very inspiring for her nonmember family members.  She did not speak that Sunday, but we did have a "Fireside" after the block and friends had made sandwichs and biscuits and juice ( the Branch did pay for it).!  We are in Africa !  The good news is, is that Sis. Jilli is a beautiful African girl that had a very successful mission and neat stories to tell  of her  experiences.  She was older when she left and had  community college done.  She will not be leaving the Branch to go to school, but will strengthen the Branch by staying for now and getting a job.  (the elusive job)  
 We had a good Institute on Wednesday.

   Took Stabiso for his missionary present and  Penelopes because he loves it for lunch!

He got a good pair of shoes.  Hope his Dad will come through on the suit.

   On Friday we offered to show "Joseph Smith and the Restoration" for a youth activity at 2PM in Ezakheni.  We had about 35 people total and I of course had to try to supply popcorn. (airpoppers almost non existent)  School was still out till the 18th.

About 8 of the Elder"s investigators showed up and they were thrilled.  

   Saturday  was a trip in taxi for the Ladysmith Branch.  Ivy and Alfred were being sealed with their children and the Taylors had someone sending and donating $300 for the taxi. We were leaving the next week for the coast and opted to not go to Joburg this time.  We need to get special permission now.  They didn't need us!  They had a wonderful time.     

   Easter Sunday was special with me doing Easter sharing time in Ezakheni and leaving the last hour to be back in time for Sister Jilli's Fireside.    

Zulu Wedding

 

Bride's best friend and little girl.

 As the weeks fly by we continue to have many and varied experiences. On the March 27th, Kent and I separated. Actually, it was the first time we had been apart for a significant period of time. Kent went with John Hawksbury, a local historian who actually lives in a large restored house that once served as the Boer hospital during the British/Boer was in the late 1800’s, and they went to Rorkes Drift, about 60 miles away. This was the site of British standoff in 1879 where 150 British soldiers held of 4000 Zulu warriors. They were planning a trip  on May 1 when we will visit the site with other members of the Ladysmith Historical Society and our local missionaries. You will hear more about this after May 1st as Kent is becoming rather a fanatic on local history! Anyway, while Kent was away, Chris played, or rather got to stay home and do whatever she wanted. (2 blogs)
   Chris is involved in teaching our branch president’s wife, Mabel Madonsela, how to teach her primary class, a class mixed with children that either speak English or Zulu. A real challenge. This past Tuesday sister Madonsela brought her sister-in-law, Ivy, who wanted to learn to speak better English. I think they have too much fun! The highlight of the week, other than getting haircuts, fasting during our missions 40-day fast, and dealing with trying to find new housing for elders, was attending a Zulu wedding.

The DeKlerks and Tanya and fiance (not the wedding couple) 

Visiting with couples, mission pres & wife and local police chief

   The Dundee branch president and his wife invited us to the wedding of their son who was to marry a Zulu girl. The wedding was at their ranch which was about 200 miles away. They raise bananas, mangos, cattle, tomatoes, and have two stores which serve the local Zulu population. We love this couple. They are down-to-earth humble servants of God. He is Africanns, she is English, having been raised in Zimbabwe. They were gracious hosts and we were honored to be asked to attend. They were almost as much in awe of the events as we were, not knowing what was exactly going to happen.
    This ranch is really in the middle of nowhere. After driving to the turnoff to their ranch we were faced with 20km or dirt road before arriving.
Not sure we would ever get there, but we did and we beat Elder and Sister Brown (who got lost on the way) and President and Sister Thompson (mission president) who also got lost. The wedding was near one of the stores and the locals had gathered by the hundreds. This was apparently a big event and they came from all over the hills to participate. If you think Zulu wards and branches start late (Zulu time they  call it), try a Zulu wedding. We were there probably 2 hours before things started to happen.

They all want their picture taken.

In fact, we only saw the bride as she was dancing and we never saw the bride and groom together, even during what was described to us as the ceremony.

The Kiest and the elders of the village performing ceremony. 

Getting ready by singing and putting on their mud.(sun block?)

  Everyone gathered in a large field and formed a large circle around the “coffin” or "kiest" that contained the bride’s personal belongings that were now moved out of her parent’s house. (Darcy are you reading?)  

  Some of the young men dressed in Leopard costumes and the young girls dressed in, well, some in bead dresses with bra tops, and some without tops (National Geographic style).

The bride was in the former group. You can tell the bride in the photos because she is the one with the hat and fox tails attached to her body and beads across her face.

This is the only pic of Bride(wearing hat giving towel to groom.) 

 These two groups danced in a “congo line” in the middle of the circle singing and kicking their legs high (which was to represent the bride’s virginity to her mother). Not sure why since the bride and groom had been living together for some time.

 

Groom's best friend.

The Go Go’s (grandmother types) danced and wailed, some waved branches continually which were to represent the departed spirits of the ancestors.

  At some point the elders, who were always in main court, spoke some words and someone told us they were now married, he on one side of the circle, she on another.

No beef-couldn't do it!  Kent thought it was tough!

Lots of rice, smash, and butternut.  

  As the festivities continued it was getting late and the “kitchen staff” offered to feed us separately before we left. We did get to eat some of the three cows that were butchered for the event, some chicken, beetroot, and chakalalka. All quite good.  I don’t think that the three cows were part of the seven cows that the groom used to buy his wife.  We brought our own Coke lites, but someone wanted them more than us and had previously removed them from our ice chest.

Can you see the cows head?

We were called back at some point to the cow corral for the giving of the gifts. The brides family gives every person in the DeKlerk family even the grandchildern, a blanket with extra presents going to the parents- like a set of dishes. We sat in chairs while grass mats covered cow patties for the presents and presenters.

  Sister DeKlerk and her daughter wanted some semblance of an “anglo wedding” and baked a cake and had her daughter decorate it professionally. We stood in a Zulu "tuck" shop putting lavender frosting roses on a wedding cake. It seemed a little incongruent! We had to leave before it was cut. Ordinarily these events take 3 days to complete but we were told that they stuffed everything into one because of out of town family.

My feelings about this experience were through the lense of someone who had just studied her scriptures and conference talks for her lessons about temple marriage. I was saddened to think that some of our going out African Elders and 1 returned African missionary that I have interviewed on the subject wants to follow the tradition of the fathers. The reason that is so bad, is that they choose to wait till they have enough money to pay the Lebola or "bride price", and it takes them years . They end up living with their bride, having children and losing their membership. They sell their soul for this pageantry and not a temple marriage.
We arrived home at 9pm and have been trying to sort this out in our minds since. This helps.